Panama - Part 1

Gardens in Boquette

Here are some reasons that Panama is better than Costa Rica:

• People are nicer
• Cars stop for you when you want to cross the street
• EVERYTHING is cheaper
• You can buy Snyders pretzels in any bodega or grocery store
• Good cheese
• Easy transportation that is also cheaper
• Better clothing stores with many selections under $10!
• Panama hats

I loved Panama.  I could have spent all of my vacation there.  The trip began with a bus ride down the Caribbean Coast to the border of Panama.  It's the rainy season on the Caribbean Coast and we were soon at a stand still behind a giant mud slide.  Since we were on vacation, it didn't matter much.  We pulled out our i-pods and sang Christmas songs.  It was kinda fun.  That night we stayed close to the border in a questionable hostel.  I almost cried.  It smelled like pee and we didn't get blankets so I had to wear a bunch of clothes and cocoon up in my stained sheets.  Ugh.  So, that was a memorable experience and luckily we got to eat at a great breakfast joint - Bread & Chocolate - before getting on our bus to Panama.

First stop: Bocas del Toro. This place is the picture you see on post cards.  It's the screen saver that comes pre-installed on your computer.  Gorgeous Caribbean waters, beach houses on stilts, and all of it backdropped by thick, green, lush jungle.  The beaches are white sand and star fish the size of your face dot the ocean floor in their purple, orange and yellow glory.  Unfortunately for us, it was rainy season.  Luckily our rickety, old victorian hostel had hammocks on the various porches and decks with a view to the ocean.  We spent our days playing Jenga and Pictionary and our evenings obnoxiously intoxicated.   Ah to be a college student on break.  None of us minded because we weren't at school, reading, writing, or even looking at a computer screen.  It was lovely and in the breaks in the rain we headed to the beach to enjoy the sunshine and swim in the ocean.  

A decision was made to leave the island early and head to the mountains to the town of Boquette.  We lucked out and were able to book a hostel that was truly a mountain home.  Refugio del Rio is an a-frame house in the Swiss style right on a river.  It has hammocks in the yard and chairs and tables along the river. The kitchen is huge and well equipped, the dining room has a large oak table and the living room is furnished with comfy couches.  Boquette had a familiar feeling for me.  It felt like home.  A town in the mountains!  The fresh crisp air, picturesque streets, a river running through town and happy smiling people all over the place.  We walked through town, picnicked at a public garden and cooked amazing meals in the kitchen.  

On our second full day, Elizabeth and I ventured out for a hike with our new friend Aaron from the hostel. We had heard that the Quetzal hike was closed and that it was open.  We had rough directions and set out.  After asking our taxi to drop us off at the trail head we were greeted by a shy 6 year old who charged us a dollar each to access the trail and assured us it was the Quetzal trail.  As we hiked, the pipeline along the side of the trail had me second guessing what trail we were actually on.  When we reached the waterfall, I realized it was the Pipeline trail.  A trail half the distance that we wanted to achieve!  So, we asked a guide for directions to another waterfall.  We set out on our hike.  There was a sign painted blue with the word 'waterfall' printed on it.  It seemed promising.  After walking more than the 2 kilometers it was supposed to be to the trailhead, we flagged down a truck for directions.  Apparently the sign was pointing us in the wrong direction.  So we headed back.  Next to the sign was a map with a compass drawn on it.  I pulled out my compass to compare it with the map and thought "huh, this crappy compass doesn't work."  Then Aaron pulled his out and it turns out the map was wrong!  In the end, we made up our own trail trespassing on private property, exploring an abandoned castle looking house and wading in a slug infested river.  We hitched a ride home in the back of a pick up and then Elizabeth and I went to the city of David to buy our bus tickets to Panama City for the next day.

In David we hit up a Conway store.  It was like angels started singing when we walked in the door.  Fashion for as far as the eye could see.  We grabbed a cart and started SHOPPING!  Soon our cart was overflowing with deals and steals in stripes, flowers, pinks and lace.  We balked at the line to the dressing room as other shoppers laughed at our overflowing shopping cart.  Let the marathon of the changing room begin!  We could only take 5 items in at a time and man, were we efficient.  Soon we had the changing room attendants cheering us on and other customers helping us make choices as we tornado-ed through our cart.  It was amazing.  We shopped, tried on clothes, and checked out in less than 90 minutes on the day before Christmas Eve!  I got an amazing jumper, 2 pair of pants, a dress, a skirt and a splattering of colorful tanks and tees all for $120!  Ah, the glory of successful shopping.

We booked a night bus to Panama City so the next day had Elizabeth, Ricardo and I ready to hike again!  We were fearless.  Even the rain didn't stop us.  Unfortunately, a flooded river did.  But not to worry.  We headed back to the hostel, and whipped up a snack before taking a tour of an organic coffee farm production.  Cafes de la Luna is set on a hilltop amidst tropical trees and valley views.  It was a lovely way to spend an afternoon.  Richard, the retired ex-pat owner, graciously showed us around and he is an amazing teacher.  I was fascinated by the meticulous record keeping and details necessary when seeking the perfect cup.  We had an informative tasting, toasted our own beans, and celebrated with a Panama beer at the end.  It was lovely.

Bastimentos in Bocas del Toro

Pipeline Waterfall Hike

Abandoned house

Flooded trail

Coffee tour

Last dinner in Boquette

Flooded houses on the way to Panama

So, up  until this point, we had lucked out on accommodation and transportation.  It was all relatively easy! Our hostels were $10, clean and comfortable.  We met nice people and had a great time.  Something strange about the hostels was that each came with an older woman traveler ex-pat that seemed to take up residence in the hostel.  They hovered over our conversations, butted in, and made wild accusations about travelers, the United States, and the state of the world.  Patricia, in Boquette, owned her own travel company and was drunk every night off champaign or wine.  Our first night she locked herself out of the hostel, then banged on the door and swore at us from outside to let her in.  She wrongly accused us of locking her out and never apologized when we opened the door and said that we didn't.  She had the last word, and most of the words, in every conversation.  It was so, well, we're not sure.  Maybe sad? On the last night, we invited her to our dinner table and actually had a nice time.

I'll fill you in on the rest of the trip soon.  I still have homework to do before I set off on my New Years journey to an indigenous celebration in the middle of the jungle in south western Costa Rica!  It is a 3 day re-enactment.  They dress up in costumes and colorful masks and re-enact pre-columbian times, the second day is the conquest, and on the third day the indigenous people resurrect and kill off the conquistadores re-claiming their lands.  Supposedly they drink mushroom tea as a part of the ceremony. Should be interesting.  Allegra and I have a home stay in the community for the 3 days. Yay!